On Guard

Dogs protect resources that they believe
are scarce and valuable, like a lap.

Our culture puts a high value on owning things and 9/10s of our laws relate to possession.  So, is it any wonder that our canine friends share our point of view?

Dogs will protect their “valuables” by growling, freezing (standing very still close to the object), covering (placing a chin or paw over something), or by positioning themselves between the object and potential usurpers.  Dogs will also collect, hide, or even swallow important objects to prevent others from getting them and to avoid conflict.  Because the preventative actions can happen quickly, we might miss that the dog is guarding.

In dog training vocabulary, protecting a possession is called “resource guarding.”  Dogs can protect their resources from other dogs/animals, people, or both.  Most people are familiar with dogs guarding bones, but dogs can also guard areas, food, toys, found objects, and even people.  The extent to which a dog will protect a resource depends on the value the dog places on the resource.  Because the value of a resource might not make sense to people, unpredictable conflicts can arise.

People usually expect dogs to guard their food.  In multiple dog households, feeding dogs separately not only eliminates the need to guard food from other dogs, but also allows the dogs to eat at their own pace and allows owners to more closely monitor what each dog is eating as well as the amount.  On the other hand, because a management plan is in place “just in case,” many people might not know if their dogs are food guarders or not.  It is usually safest to assume that they are, and to practice non-resource guarding training.

Usually “resource guarding” results from a perceived shortage of the resource.  Therefore two ways to prevent resource guarding are to either create a perception of plenty or to eliminate the resource altogether.  Having more “valuables” than there are dogs (pig ears, chew toys, balls, etc.) can help prevent resource guarding mostly because there is no need to challenge the dog “in possession.”  I always recommend teaching swapping to dogs: asking the dog to give something up in exchange for something of equal or better value.  This often happens when puppies are teething.  People take away the tennis shoe and replace it with an appropriate chew toy for example, but swapping is also something that should be done with all new dogs, just be sure to start with something that’s extra low value, which might even be an empty bowl.  The idea being created is that the item in possession will lose value because something much better will take its place.  Dogs will even eagerly relinquish things if they’ve learned this is the case.

However, when the dog is guarding a person or location, it becomes more complicated to create value, especially when we want our dogs to see us as “the best thing ever.”  In such cases, the resource becomes a reward which can be removed for inappropriate behavior.  It’s best to remove the resource the moment low level guarding starts to take place (staring or freezing if someone/thing approaches).  For people, that means that the person leaves the room and the dog remains in the room. To “restore” the resource, the dog needs to show appropriate, non-guarding behavior.  It’s also possible to lower our “value” by refusing to interact w/ the dog and having another person bestow the desired attention.  The use of the resource can also be conditional:  the dog can receive attention only if the other dog is receiving attention as well.  Swapping can also be used if there is a reward that is comparable to the chosen person’s attention.  Dogs can be given the “alternate reward,” if they relinquish or share the person’s attention. 

Playing tug teaches dogs that sharing a resource can be fun.

It is important to know that dogs that resource guard will often return to that behavior if a new valuable resource appears or if they aren’t constantly being reinforced for relinquishing an item.  If there are multiple dogs, heavily rewarding a dog for not trying to take a resource from the other can also prevent conflict.  In some instances, letting the dog eat a rare resource, such as a piece of dead squirrel, is acceptable, so long as the dog isn’t using threatening behavior to keep you or others away.

It pays to be aware of resource guarding behavior to prevent accidental bites.  Any dog that seems to be “covering” or freezes when approached should be treated with caution and children should be taught to avoid a dog when it is in this state.  However, as our dogs learn that no resource is better than the one you can offer, resource guarding can be significantly diminished.

In the Mood

We all have bad days.  The trick is learning how to make good
ones.

As an AKC Canine Good Citizen evaluator, I always begin an evaluation by explaining to test takers that any test is reflective only of that moment in which the test is taken.  In education terms, it is considered a “snapshot,” a moment captured, and just like a photograph, it doesn’t show hours of practice, good days and bad, or even the whole day.  It just shows, in the case of the CGC evaluation, how well dog and trainer complete the ten items in roughly fifteen minutes, but competitions, such as agility, rally, obedience, or K-9 Nosework trials, should be considered the same way.  The failure to perform at expected levels does not necessarily mean the dog or the handler are incapable or lacking skill. Sometimes health is an issue.  Sometimes our dogs are over stressed.   Then again, sometimes one of the participants just isn’t “in the mood” for the event.   Any number of factors can be at play, and since our dogs can’t explain their reasons, it’s up to us to reflect and analyze the situation.

The first thing we all consider is, did we train enough for the occasion?  Did we give the proper cues and did the dog fully understand the cues at the given moment?  Sometimes, because we’re anxious, we muddle our cues by either broadening or making them more subtle (motion cues v. verbal cues, large motion v. small gestures, etc.).  When we alter our cues, particularly if we’re in a new location (a show ring rather than in the living room, for example), our dogs can get confused or become unsure.   Because dogs are poor at generalization, too many mitigating factors can create a different picture for them altogether, making them draw a complete blank.  That’s why it’s important to train in a variety of places and under a variety of circumstances.   Once we’re sure that our dogs know and understand the cues we’re giving, we can look at other matters.

As mentioned, new environments can be distracting.  To asses safety, dogs gather information through scent, sight, and sound, especially dogs that don’t travel much and nervous dogs.   Allowing time for exploration can help a dog become more relaxed.  If possible, take the dog to the evaluation area a few times before the event, creating calm and positive associations.  If visiting the actual place isn’t possible, then going to similar settings can help.  In cases where there will be a variety of possible settings, such as with dogs being trained for rescue work or even Nosework, taking dogs to a variety of different places on a regular basis can help them learn that new places are safe and interesting.

Not surprisingly, health can also effect evaluations.  A dog with stomach problems or even dental issues, once returned to good health, might easily pass the evaluation.  When my dog started indulging in an increasing variety of displacement behaviors (sniffing, scratching, drinking excessive water) over a month long period, I thought that I might be stressing him too much.  But he also chewed on his feet at night and scratched, common signs of allergies.  He was wheat sensitive and I had been giving him dog treats with wheat.  After I altered his diet, he started to regain his former focus and enthusiasm.   It’s important to be aware of when our dogs aren’t feeling in top form since that can have a tremendous impact on their performance.

Finally, stress can impact our dogs’ behaviors.   Many times, it’s our own stress that’s being relayed to our dogs.  The scent of adrenaline and other chemicals can alert dogs to our anxiety.  From our dogs’ perspective, stress and fear are often linked.  A “fearful” scent concerns our dogs, especially since their well-being is tied to our ability to keep them safe.  Sometimes the accumulation of multiple minor events can make our dogs stressed and unfocused as well.  We’re all entitled to a “bad day.”  Making the evaluation process fun both for us and our dogs can help everyone become more relaxed and create a better performance.

Competitions and evaluations should be fun and a source of positive feedback on our interaction with our dogs.  It’s important to remember that while our dogs like to spend time with us and enjoy mental and physical challenges, ribbons and titles hold no meaning for them.  Taking a break or adding some interest can make a sport or event fun again, and that can get everyone back in the mood.

The Waiting is the Hardest Part

A strong "wait/stay" at the door can prevent accidents.

For most dogs, there’s nothing more exciting than “out there” – the back yard, the front yard, beyond the car door.  The problem is that dogs get so excited about being “out there,” they don’t see cars coming or they’re already above threshold with excitement so the sudden delight of seeing a squirrel, cat, person, or other dog puts them at “11” – completely and totally out of control.  There are two components to teaching dogs not to rush out of an open door: teaching a strong wait/stay and desensitizing the dog enough so that it will hear the cue.

In training, “wait” and “stay” can have two different meanings.  “Stay” usually means to remain in one position until released.  “Wait” means to remain in one place, although position can change, from a stand to a sit, for example.  For most dog owners, the words are interchangeable, although if that’s to be the case, the dog should be trained with both the “wait” and “stay” command.

“Wait” or “stay” is a difficult cue for many dogs to grasp initially because it is the only cue that asks them to do nothing.  Wait/stay is the absence of movement.  When a dog is already doing nothing, and we put a label to it, we’re basically marking “negative space” – that moment between doing nothing and doing something.  Many times the dog links the concept with the current position.  So, a dog being asked to wait while in a sit position, will connect “wait/stay” with sit.  Ask for a wait while a dog is standing or lying down, and the dog won’t understand or will go to a sit position.  For the dog to fully understand “wait/stay,” it should be trained while the dog is in a variety of positions until the dog understands that the cue relates to the lack of movement rather than the position.

To teach stay, it’s easiest to start by putting the dog in a resting position, usually a down, so that it takes longer for the dog to shift positions, making it easier for the dog to be successful.  The traditional signal of a hand in front of the dog’s face produces a momentary physical barrier that will also cause a dog to pause.  Marking and rewarding for a pause even a fraction of a second long will alert the dog that it is doing something desired.  Gradually expanding time and introducing movement by the handler helps solidify the concept.   Once the dog is consistent in response when the handler is beside or in front of the dog, changes in distance and position when the cue is given can be introduced.

Keeping dogs calm when the door opens is another important component to preventing dogs from rushing out the door.  Start training with an interior door, like one in a bedroom or bathroom.  Without saying anything, touch the door knob.  If the dog reacts (perky ears, rushing towards where the door will open, barking), do not do anything, or for people compelled to give feedback, give a “no reward” marker (most people use “oops”).  Try to capture the nanosecond between no reaction and reaction with a marker (click or “yes!”) and reward.  Repeat until there is an 80% success rate, then advance to rattling the door knob and repeat until the dog shows no reaction.  The next steps would be turning the knob, then unlatching (but not opening) the door, opening the door a crack, then opening the door.  Repeat with different interior doors, advancing to the door to an enclosed area like a garage, or to the back yard.  When the “wait/stay” cue is solid, start using it when doors are already open, or going into the house, work up to doors being opened.  Don’t forget to train when going in and out of the car as well.  Randomly jumping out of car into a busy parking lot can have tragic consequences.

Because training takes time and rushing out of doors can be dangerous, consider putting management tools in place.  Put up a child gate to keep dogs out of rooms that have outdoor access.  Enter and exit through areas with a safety door, like through the door in the garage (close the garage door first before opening the door to the house) or a gated yard, making sure the gate is closed before the front door is open.  Keep the dog in a separate room when company is expected or during parties where there will be many people coming and going. 

A second barrier can foil escape plans.

Despite the best training and having management tools in place, accidents happen.  Make sure your dog is always wearing some form of identification, either with tags or micro-chipping or both since collars get lost and not all shelters carry the equipment necessary to read all microchips.  Keep an emergency stash of treats by exits as well, so rather than chasing after the dog, which can create fear or a sense of play, the dog can be lured back.  Don’t scold the dog or punish it for running away since the dog won’t equate the punishment with running away, but rather its return.  Squatting, even running away from the dog can make returning to you more attractive. 

The great outdoors holds infinite allure.  While we don’t want our dogs to be afraid of what’s “out there,” we do want them to know that the wait is worthwhile.  With time and patience, our dogs will learn that waiting isn’t so hard after all.

Scheming Minds

In training, it's the thought that counts.

 Imagine learning how to ride a bike only through lecture, observation, or reading.  Even having someone position you on the bike won’t work.  Punishment, intimidation, or fear won’t speed up the process, and anxiety can hinder it.  Encouragement can help build confidence to explore or expand on the experience.  To learn how to ride a bike, what ultimately must happen, is an inner awareness of the word “balance,” something that can only be gained on one’s own, through experience and trial and error.  We know we’ve achieved balance when the bike doesn’t tip and we take a mental “photograph” of that sensation and attach the label, “balance.”  The same thing happens when we first learn how to swim, dive, or tango.  They all require a level of physical awareness.

Everything we want our dogs to do is physical.  Therefore, the most efficient and thorough way for a dog to understand a movement, position, or behavior pattern is for the dog to learn by doing, using experience and trial and error. The dog then takes a mental “photograph” of its physical state and connects that state to the handler’s label.  Clickers, mouth clicks, and to a lesser level, marker words can help our dogs know when to take that mental photograph by combining their physical awareness with a sound.

Because dogs are so aware of their bodies, physically manipulating dogs either with hands or a leash can serve as a distraction rather than a learning tool.  Most dogs don’t enjoy being touched while they’re thinking or working.  They’ll duck their heads or balk.  Using shocks or vibrations also adds stress and additional stimulation when the dog is trying to concentrate on its own physical condition. 

Physical contact with the dog can also muddy the message.  When the command is “sit,” and it’s followed by the handler pushing on the dog’s backside until the dog is in sitting position, does “sit” mean “expect to feel pressure on the hindquarters until in a sitting position?”  What about when the command is followed by a leash jerk?  It sounds silly, but I’ve seen many mature, trained dogs who won’t sit until their handler touches their back end or jerks the leash however lightly.  Even a reward and marker at the point when the dog’s butt hits the ground doesn’t erase or make irrelevant the previous physical contact, the sensation has made that strong of a connection on the dog’s physical awareness with the label.  Training in a quiet area, off leash, letting the dog do the movements on its own volition is ideal.

The dog can perform a desired action without handling by using luring, shaping, and capturing.  In luring, the dog follows a treat or toy until his body is in the “right” place.  The object doesn’t manipulate the dog.  The dog chooses how to follow the lure.  Shaping is adding to a previously successful behavior, which creates a new behavior, such as from touching something with its nose, to putting it in its mouth, to picking it up.  Capturing is giving a pre-existing behavior a label.

Building onto the schema.

The choice of action is what creates the learning experience.  Choice A either works or doesn’t.  If it doesn’t, the dog must make another choice, creating a behavior “tree” or schema of potential behaviors.  If there is no punishment for an unsuccessful behavior, the behavior remains on the “tree” for possible use at a later time.  If there is a punishment, the dog equates the behavior with an uncomfortable physical sensation and it’s taken off the tree.  While that seems acceptable, imagine a dog lying down rather than sitting and being punished for lying down.  Lying down becomes an unpleasant physical state and falls off the behavior schema tree.  So, what happens when the handler wants the dog to lie down? This can be seen in retired racing greyhounds who were shocked when they tried to sit in the starting gates.  It’s very difficult to re-add the behavior to their schema tree and some retired racers won’t ever sit.  Ignoring an undesired behavior during training basically informs the dog that that behavior isn’t wanted at this time.  Over time, dogs can build an expansive mental catalogue of behaviors that are just waiting for a label later in the dog’s training.

What makes behavior trees interesting is that we never know all the behaviors our dogs have attached to their schemas.  Playing games like 101 Things to Do with a Box or Show Me Something New can help us see into our dog’s mind, giving us the opportunity to identify and label a previously undiscovered behavior.  Training our dogs by showing them how to create a cognitive schema not only makes for a better behaved dog, but for a “smarter” dog who’s eager to learn and show us his full potential.

The Cause, Not the Symptom

Growling, snarling, and barking are warning signals

Many of us have experienced the chill at the sound of a dog’s rumbling growl or vicious bark.  Some of us might have even been the owner of the dog that was doing the barking and growling and felt embarrassed by our dogs’ behavior.  We feel like our dogs are being rude and unsocial and the temptation is to reprimand them for being that way.  But it’s important to remember why dogs growl and bark and to examine the causes rather than addressing the symptom.

Dogs do most of their communication without vocalization.  Slight gestures like the turn of the head, lip licking, or sniffing the ground are all signs of discomfort.  Given the option, most dogs will give a variety of signals, including leaving a situation, rather than get involved in a physical conflict.  It’s only after the silent communication is ignored that verbal communication is utilized.  Growling/barking are the final warnings before physical action is taken, and depending on the dog, physical action can be anything from an air snap to an inhibited bite to a full-fledged attack.

However, experience can modify how dogs communicate their warnings.  A dog whose silent warning signs are consistently ignored will then cease to use those signals and go directly to vocalization, especially if vocalization gets the desired results.  A dog who is punished for vocalizing will stop vocalizing and go immediately into a physical response.  A dog that attacks without any warning at all is highly dangerous.  For safety’s sake, it makes sense to keep the growl and the bark, but address what is making the dog uncomfortable so it won’t feel the need to warn people or animals away.

Growling usually happens when a dog still has a considerable amount of control over its behavior.  It’s the human equivalent of a firm “Stop.”   The dog is willing to wait for the situation to change, although it’s already considering the next step in the process, if the situation remains the same.  There is room for negotiation when the mental pressure is released.

Barking, on the other hand, is done in the state of high arousal and suggests a dog out of control of its behavior.  Not all barking is a warning, dogs can bark out of extreme joy.  Barking is the equivalent of human yelling.  Humans yell when they’re excited as well, whether in celebration of a victorious sporting event or if a loved one is in danger.  Because a barking dog is already beyond its control threshold, there is no time for negotiation, and the dog can go immediately into its preferred defense mode of fight or flight.

Address the cause, not the signal.

Because growling and barking are warnings to “stay away/leave me alone,” to stop the vocalization, we need to find out why the dog wants space.  Usually, it is because the dog is afraid, afraid that it’s going to be harmed or that something important (to the dog) is going to be taken away.  If a dog is worried about being harmed, is it because it is currently in discomfort/pain?  Has it been hurt before by something/someone similar?  Is it encountering an unknown person/animal/object that might hurt it?  If the dog is worried something is going to be taken away, it’s called “resource guarding.”  The resource can be a toy, a treat, food, or even a person.  There is also guarding territory, trying to keep people and animals away from an area to protect the resources there.  The dog is afraid it’s going to lose something valuable.

Sometimes it’s obvious what’s making our dogs growl and bark.  Other times it takes some detective work, which is where a professional trainer can become useful.  Once we find the cause, we can train our dogs to be less fearful or possessive which will eliminate their need to growl/bark, while allowing them to keep that warning signal, should they need it at a later date.  It’s a crucial component for safety.

Dogs give warnings to tell us they’re feeling threatened, that their personal space is being invaded and that they are worried that something “bad” is going to happen.  We owe it to them to respect and address their concerns. Just like with human friends and family members, when we keep all the lines of communication open, we can better  understand each other.             

Fostering Hope

Some dogs need fostering because they're ill. Some people
foster dogs to find a good match for their dog.

“I really want a/another dog, but I’m not sure I’m ready, yet.”

Music to my ears.  Not because it’s an opportunity to get a dog a home, but because the statement implies that there’s been some thought put  into what a dog needs and how that fits into the person’s life.  As eager as I am to sing the praises of having a dog, I also don’t want dogs and owners to be miserable because it wasn’t the right time, nor do I want to see a dog being sent to a shelter for the same reason.  But how does one know if he or she is ready for canine companionship?  Or, if there are already dogs in the household, if adding another dog is the right thing to do?

One way to “test drive” if you’re ready to be a dog owner or not is to foster a dog from a rescue.  Generally, fostering requires a person to bring a dog into their home, care for it according to the organization’s requirements, and then to either return the dog to the organization after certain criteria are met or to care for the dog until it is adopted.  What it comes down to, is that the dog is only in the home temporarily.  For potential dog owners, this gives an opportunity for the foster to decide if having a dog works for their lifestyle. 

Sometimes the screening process to become a dog foster can make the dog owning decision simple (if there is no screening, do not foster with that organization. Help finding organizations can be found here.) Depending on the type of fostering, different organizations will have different requirements.  They will ask a variety of questions about the kind of housing in which the person is living, family members, work hours, and experience with dogs among other things.  These are usually the same kinds of questions that are important to dog ownership.  Don’t be afraid to ask why the organization is asking a question.  The answer can offer a different perspective of what having a dog requires.  It might also be a question specific to fostering.  Don’t be offended if fostering isn’t a good match.  Again, ask questions to gain insight into why, and perhaps apply again when the situation changes. 

That doesn’t mean that someone who’s never owned a dog can’t foster, but again, it depends on the needs of the organization.  An organization that needs fosters for dogs with behavior issues will need a foster who is experienced with training dogs, and usually within the organizations approved methods.  Some organizations don’t have actual facilities, so they might need someone who is willing and able to house a perfectly delightful dog until it finds its forever home.  Some organizations need someone to care for a sick dog until it is healthy enough to go up for adoption.

Fostering can give dogs an opportunity to blossom and
then find their forever home.

Fostering isn’t just for first time dog owners or people looking to add a new dog.  Fostering can also be an option for people of limited financial means.  Most of the time, the rescue organization will provide food and medical care for the foster.  Because dogs can live to be 15 years old or longer, some people feel that they’re too old to get a dog because the animal might outlive them.  So again, fostering could get a dog into the home, but the foster “parent” can rest assured that the dog’s future is secure.  Fostering can also offer options for people who travel frequently, but can house a dog for a week or two at a time.

One of the best things about fostering is being able to help out an animal that otherwise might not have an opportunity for adoption.  There’s a pleasure in knowing you’ve made a difference in a life Even if the foster dog isn’t a good match for your home, the information taken from the experience can help the foster dog find its perfect match.  It’s also a step towards learning a little more about ourselves and when it’s time to look for the perfect canine match for us.

All You Have to Do is (Re)Call



“Could you come here for a second?”

“In a minute …”

“I need you to come now.”

“At the commercial.”

“Could you come here, please?”

“Sure, just after I finish this ….”

As humans, we learn quickly that when someone calls for us, it usually means that they want us to do something for him/her, and usually it’s something we don’t care to do.  We don’t want to come, but we might feel obliged to do so depending on the urgency of tone or who’s doing the calling.  But what if we knew that every time we were called, it was to do or receive something we enjoyed more than anything else?  Most of us came running when grandma called.

A strong recall is one of the most desired behaviors for dog owners but it’s also one of the most difficult ones to achieve reliably.  It’s not complicated to train.  Dogs react the same way we do.  A good recall of humans and dogs relies on one key principle: the one being called must want to come.

There are three rules to build a good recall.  First, only recall for something good, a treat, a walk, a game of ball, or anything else that’s enjoyable.  Second, only recall when one hundred percent sure the recall will work.  And lastly, only use the command (and it must be a command, not just a name) once. 

Rewarding a recall builds anticipation and enthusiasm.  It’s the one time when “no reward” is not an option.  Use a variety of high value rewards associated when training recall – chicken, the best game of tug ever, a car ride, the arrival of a cherished friend to build excitement about coming.  And never call for anything “bad” – a bath, trip to the vet, nail clipping, etc.  It can’t be emphasized enough that coming when called, no matter how slow, must ALWAYS be rewarded and preferably with a smile.  Many frustrated dog owners call their dog after it has run away and when the dog arrives too slowly or reluctantly (possibly due to tone), the dog is scolded or worse, which prompts progressively slower and more reluctant responses the next time it is called until it doesn’t respond at all, or even runs away in terror.  The dog associates their owner’s response with the dog’s last action.  Always welcome the prodigal dog’s return.  Which leads to Rule #2:  Only call when you’re sure the dog will come.

Practice recall in a low distraction area first

Don’t call the dog if it is distracted or hyper-focused on something more interesting than you.  The brain can only respond to one stimulus at a time. Avoid a frustrating situation and go get the dog.  It’s not that dogs can’t come under highly distracting conditions, but it must be trained.  Start by practicing recall in low distraction areas with minimal distance, only a couple of feet at first.  Gradually build distance and distraction (never both simultaneously).  Time and experience will teach the dog that coming when called pays off better than chasing after a squirrel.  In the meantime, if the suspicion is that the temptation is more valuable than you, go and get the dog or better yet, capture the dog’s attention before it becomes “locked and loaded” and reward heavily for the attention.

Finally, don’t make yourself upset by giving a recall command multiple times.  If you sincerely believe the dog was out of hearing range, then call again.  Otherwise, the word loses its value and anger builds.  Calling multiple times becomes nagging or background noise.  We all remember mom saying, “How many times have I told you …” but few of us remember exactly how many times she did tell us and at that point we don’t care.  By limiting the recall to one command, we can keep our tempers in check while we go to the dog.  When we’re close enough to regain its attention, we can still feel comfortable rewarding the dog when it does finally come.

Training a good recall is convenient and vital for safety.  While it takes time and practice, it’s well worth the investment.  When you’re out on the trail and your dog responds enthusiastically to your recall, there’s that thrill to it.  As dog owners, there’s a sense of accomplishment when our dogs have decided we’re the best thing in their world.  Even better than squirrels.