The Waiting is the Hardest Part

A strong "wait/stay" at the door can prevent accidents.

For most dogs, there’s nothing more exciting than “out there” – the back yard, the front yard, beyond the car door.  The problem is that dogs get so excited about being “out there,” they don’t see cars coming or they’re already above threshold with excitement so the sudden delight of seeing a squirrel, cat, person, or other dog puts them at “11” – completely and totally out of control.  There are two components to teaching dogs not to rush out of an open door: teaching a strong wait/stay and desensitizing the dog enough so that it will hear the cue.

In training, “wait” and “stay” can have two different meanings.  “Stay” usually means to remain in one position until released.  “Wait” means to remain in one place, although position can change, from a stand to a sit, for example.  For most dog owners, the words are interchangeable, although if that’s to be the case, the dog should be trained with both the “wait” and “stay” command.

“Wait” or “stay” is a difficult cue for many dogs to grasp initially because it is the only cue that asks them to do nothing.  Wait/stay is the absence of movement.  When a dog is already doing nothing, and we put a label to it, we’re basically marking “negative space” – that moment between doing nothing and doing something.  Many times the dog links the concept with the current position.  So, a dog being asked to wait while in a sit position, will connect “wait/stay” with sit.  Ask for a wait while a dog is standing or lying down, and the dog won’t understand or will go to a sit position.  For the dog to fully understand “wait/stay,” it should be trained while the dog is in a variety of positions until the dog understands that the cue relates to the lack of movement rather than the position.

To teach stay, it’s easiest to start by putting the dog in a resting position, usually a down, so that it takes longer for the dog to shift positions, making it easier for the dog to be successful.  The traditional signal of a hand in front of the dog’s face produces a momentary physical barrier that will also cause a dog to pause.  Marking and rewarding for a pause even a fraction of a second long will alert the dog that it is doing something desired.  Gradually expanding time and introducing movement by the handler helps solidify the concept.   Once the dog is consistent in response when the handler is beside or in front of the dog, changes in distance and position when the cue is given can be introduced.

Keeping dogs calm when the door opens is another important component to preventing dogs from rushing out the door.  Start training with an interior door, like one in a bedroom or bathroom.  Without saying anything, touch the door knob.  If the dog reacts (perky ears, rushing towards where the door will open, barking), do not do anything, or for people compelled to give feedback, give a “no reward” marker (most people use “oops”).  Try to capture the nanosecond between no reaction and reaction with a marker (click or “yes!”) and reward.  Repeat until there is an 80% success rate, then advance to rattling the door knob and repeat until the dog shows no reaction.  The next steps would be turning the knob, then unlatching (but not opening) the door, opening the door a crack, then opening the door.  Repeat with different interior doors, advancing to the door to an enclosed area like a garage, or to the back yard.  When the “wait/stay” cue is solid, start using it when doors are already open, or going into the house, work up to doors being opened.  Don’t forget to train when going in and out of the car as well.  Randomly jumping out of car into a busy parking lot can have tragic consequences.

Because training takes time and rushing out of doors can be dangerous, consider putting management tools in place.  Put up a child gate to keep dogs out of rooms that have outdoor access.  Enter and exit through areas with a safety door, like through the door in the garage (close the garage door first before opening the door to the house) or a gated yard, making sure the gate is closed before the front door is open.  Keep the dog in a separate room when company is expected or during parties where there will be many people coming and going. 

A second barrier can foil escape plans.

Despite the best training and having management tools in place, accidents happen.  Make sure your dog is always wearing some form of identification, either with tags or micro-chipping or both since collars get lost and not all shelters carry the equipment necessary to read all microchips.  Keep an emergency stash of treats by exits as well, so rather than chasing after the dog, which can create fear or a sense of play, the dog can be lured back.  Don’t scold the dog or punish it for running away since the dog won’t equate the punishment with running away, but rather its return.  Squatting, even running away from the dog can make returning to you more attractive. 

The great outdoors holds infinite allure.  While we don’t want our dogs to be afraid of what’s “out there,” we do want them to know that the wait is worthwhile.  With time and patience, our dogs will learn that waiting isn’t so hard after all.