All You Have to Do is (Re)Call



“Could you come here for a second?”

“In a minute …”

“I need you to come now.”

“At the commercial.”

“Could you come here, please?”

“Sure, just after I finish this ….”

As humans, we learn quickly that when someone calls for us, it usually means that they want us to do something for him/her, and usually it’s something we don’t care to do.  We don’t want to come, but we might feel obliged to do so depending on the urgency of tone or who’s doing the calling.  But what if we knew that every time we were called, it was to do or receive something we enjoyed more than anything else?  Most of us came running when grandma called.

A strong recall is one of the most desired behaviors for dog owners but it’s also one of the most difficult ones to achieve reliably.  It’s not complicated to train.  Dogs react the same way we do.  A good recall of humans and dogs relies on one key principle: the one being called must want to come.

There are three rules to build a good recall.  First, only recall for something good, a treat, a walk, a game of ball, or anything else that’s enjoyable.  Second, only recall when one hundred percent sure the recall will work.  And lastly, only use the command (and it must be a command, not just a name) once. 

Rewarding a recall builds anticipation and enthusiasm.  It’s the one time when “no reward” is not an option.  Use a variety of high value rewards associated when training recall – chicken, the best game of tug ever, a car ride, the arrival of a cherished friend to build excitement about coming.  And never call for anything “bad” – a bath, trip to the vet, nail clipping, etc.  It can’t be emphasized enough that coming when called, no matter how slow, must ALWAYS be rewarded and preferably with a smile.  Many frustrated dog owners call their dog after it has run away and when the dog arrives too slowly or reluctantly (possibly due to tone), the dog is scolded or worse, which prompts progressively slower and more reluctant responses the next time it is called until it doesn’t respond at all, or even runs away in terror.  The dog associates their owner’s response with the dog’s last action.  Always welcome the prodigal dog’s return.  Which leads to Rule #2:  Only call when you’re sure the dog will come.

Practice recall in a low distraction area first

Don’t call the dog if it is distracted or hyper-focused on something more interesting than you.  The brain can only respond to one stimulus at a time. Avoid a frustrating situation and go get the dog.  It’s not that dogs can’t come under highly distracting conditions, but it must be trained.  Start by practicing recall in low distraction areas with minimal distance, only a couple of feet at first.  Gradually build distance and distraction (never both simultaneously).  Time and experience will teach the dog that coming when called pays off better than chasing after a squirrel.  In the meantime, if the suspicion is that the temptation is more valuable than you, go and get the dog or better yet, capture the dog’s attention before it becomes “locked and loaded” and reward heavily for the attention.

Finally, don’t make yourself upset by giving a recall command multiple times.  If you sincerely believe the dog was out of hearing range, then call again.  Otherwise, the word loses its value and anger builds.  Calling multiple times becomes nagging or background noise.  We all remember mom saying, “How many times have I told you …” but few of us remember exactly how many times she did tell us and at that point we don’t care.  By limiting the recall to one command, we can keep our tempers in check while we go to the dog.  When we’re close enough to regain its attention, we can still feel comfortable rewarding the dog when it does finally come.

Training a good recall is convenient and vital for safety.  While it takes time and practice, it’s well worth the investment.  When you’re out on the trail and your dog responds enthusiastically to your recall, there’s that thrill to it.  As dog owners, there’s a sense of accomplishment when our dogs have decided we’re the best thing in their world.  Even better than squirrels.

Make and Model

Jindos and other primative breeds are known for their
high prey drive and not being very affiliative.

Frequently, first time dog owners acquire their first dog based on aesthetics and media reputation.  A dog by any other name is still a dog, right?  Not exactly.  Every time a film/t.v. show about dogs is released, Beverly Hills Chihuahua, 101 Dalmatians, Fraisier, sales of the feature breed increases, and not long afterward, there’s an increase of the same breeds in many shelters. Chihuahuas bark and tend to be skittish. Dalmatians have incredible strength, protectiveness, and energy.  Jack Russell Terriers are high energy and require constant mental stimulation.  250,000 years of breeding dogs for specific behaviors and, more recently, for appearances has made an impact on the canine world.  Selective breeding is what makes retrievers retrieve, herders herd, and shepherds guard. In classic design rule, form follows function.  Streamlined bodies and long legs develop in racing dogs, stocky legs and muscular bodies protect dogs enable dogs to attack bulls and hogs, webbed feet and thick undercoats keep waterdogs warm in cold seas.  Knowing what characteristics a dog was bred for can help identify what behaviors can be expected.  Genetically selected behavior is difficult, if not impossible to over-ride.

However, over the past hundred years, there’s been a growing division in many dog breeds between conformation (how a dog looks) versus working branches of the same breed.  German Shepherd Dogs (GSD) and Labrador Retrievers are great examples of the division.  The GSDs bred for conformation tend to have extremely sloped backs and shorter muzzles in comparison to the working version (police dogs, dogs bred for sports, etc.).  The GSDs bred for work tend to have higher energy levels and tenacity than the conformation versions.  Labrador Retrievers have at least three versions: conformation, field (hunting) and working (assistance dogs).  The conformation and assistant dog versions tend to be heavier set.  Labs bred as guide dogs tend to be more calm, resilient, and smaller.  Field labs have a more pronounced slope from their chest to their belly, longer legs, and are extremely high energy with incredible endurance.  Many other breeds have similar divisions.

Health is another issue to consider when looking at breeds of dogs.  The larger dogs tend to have hip and knee issues, some more than others.  For some breeds, owners should expect hip problems, which can easily mean $6,000 in surgery when the dog is just a few years old.  Not surprisingly, dogs with long backs often have back issues and would do better to live in houses without stairs.  Brachycephalic dogs (smushed in noses like English bulldogs or pugs) tend to have serious respiratory problems and overheat easily, making hot climates potentially dangerous for them.  Some health issues are not visible, like heart or eye conditions, or even behavioral problems like “rage syndrome.” Knowing what problems can come with the dogs can help with decision making.

Mixed breed dogs carry mixed behavioral and aesthetic traits.

Mixed breed dogs are complicated.  If both parents are known and purebred, then expect a combination of behaviors.  For the “Heinz 57” dogs, don’t go by looks alone.  Watching how dogs interact with their environment and play with other dogs and humans can provide some clues.  A dog that keys into movement might have herding or sight hound genes.  A dog that seems focused and tenacious about a task could be part terrier.  The current DNA tests available can sometimes reveal the ancestral roots of our dogs, but they’re not very reliable.  I’ve known people who’ve done multiple tests with the same dog but have had vastly different results, even within the same DNA- decoding company.  Buyer beware. 

When looking for a dog, be honest about lifestyle.  Hounds, bred for their voice and use of voice, might not be the best choice for apartment living.  A field bred dog can cause chaos in a sedentary household. For those not familiar with a multitude of breeds, there are some trainers and reputable breeders who can help provide guidance.  If acquiring a purebred dog, ask the breeder about the parents.  Were the dogs bred for conformation?  Work?  Both?  What traits do the parents exhibit?  If the dog is going to be a household pet, it’s very important to ask about temperament.  Not all dogs are bred to be tolerant and affiliative with people.  Good breeders will be honest about the pros and cons of their breed and about their dogs.  They want to be sure their dogs find the homes best suited for them as well.  If they’re not willing to tell the “good” and the “bad,” find another breeder.

Most of us take the time to learn a little about vehicles before we buy one, and many people only keep their cars, vans, or SUVs for five years.  Considering a dog can live from seven to twenty years, doing at least an equal amount of research makes sense.  Knowing what “make and model” of dog best suits our needs can help match our best friends to their best homes.

It's Potty Time

Many commercial products are great
at removing odors and stains

Housetraining frequently determines whether a dog becomes a family member or a backyard dog.  Because dogs that live with their families tend to be better trained, loved, and cared for, they’re more likely to remain with the family.  So it makes sense to dedicate a few weeks’ time to housetrain for a lifetime of devotion and companionship.  Housetraining isn’t difficult, but it does require full attention and dedication on the human’s part as well as an understanding of a dog’s physical capabilities. 

The general rule is that dogs can hold their bladders one hour per month of age (ex. five months old equals five hours), up to eight hours.  Asking a dog to wait longer than eight hours to relieve itself can result not only in accidents but also in health risks, such as urinary tract infections.  And some dogs can’t last eight hours. 

Dogs usually do not relieve themselves where they sleep.  Crate training helps so long as the crate isn’t so large that the dog can have a sleeping and potty area.  However, dogs raised in puppy mills or who have been kept in kennels for extended periods of time might relieve themselves anywhere.  Dogs kept too long in their crates might also start relieving themselves in the crate out of necessity at first, then habit.

Like people, dogs relieve themselves after waking, eating, and vigorous play.  Dogs also sniff intensely right before they relieve themselves.  Quickly take the dog to the appropriate potty area when sniffing occurs.  The movement might temporarily disrupt “the plan,” but be patient.  The need is there.  Knowing where the dog is and what it’s doing at all times ensures that the dog can be taken to the proper location to relieve itself when it gives the potty cues. Prevent the dog from having unsupervised run of the house to prevent accidents from occurring.  Either keep the dog in a restricted area (crate, easily cleaned room, etc.) or tether the dog to your belt so that there’s no wandering and sudden changes of movement are felt.

Going to the bathroom outside is not a dog’s natural instinct, especially during inclement weather.  It’s important to make pottying outside comfortable and rewarding.  Dogs prefer a soft surface underfoot to potty (which is why they usually relieve themselves on carpet or rugs in the house).  A grassy area is more attractive than gravel or concrete.  Adult male dogs might prefer a vertical surface for urination. 

While training, it’s mandatory to accompany the dog outside, both to ensure the job gets done and to mark and reward the appropriate behavior as it occurs.  It helps to refuse to interact with the dog until it relieves itself, after which a “celebration” always follows involving play or treats.  If the dog enjoys being outdoors, don’t bring the dog indoors as soon as it’s done or the dog won’t relieve itself until it wants to go inside, which might not be for hours. If fun and good times follow pottying, then the dog is more likely to potty quickly to let the games begin.  Watch carefully as some dogs do “fake out squats” to get play to start.

Don’t punish the dog if it relieves itself in the house.  The dog will learn that relieving itself in your presence is bad which can lead to “secret missions.”  Punishing dogs after the fact is confusing because dogs can’t relate the action of relieving themselves to your angry presence and the urine spot or feces.  A lowered head and body is an expression of fear, not guilt.  Interrupt a dog mid- act with encouragement to go outside to finish up.  Always follow success with praise and other rewards.

The waiting is the hardest part.

Once dogs figure out the appropriate relieving area, it’s important to be aware of when the dog is at the door so it can be let outside quickly both to allow it to relieve itself and to confirm that it is behaving properly.  Dogs “ask” to be let out when their bladders are full, so don’t wait. It’s worthwhile to teach the dog to ring a “jingle bell” or other device to alert the household when it needs to go out so there isn’t any accidental neglect.  Teaching a dog to urinate and defecate on command is also helpful.

When adopting adult dogs, assume they are NOT housetrained.  Dogs apply “rules” to the environment in which they were taught.  New house, new rules.  Some dogs start out housetrained, but then have accidents a week or two after arriving, usually because they aren’t sure if the former rule applies so they want to see if it does.  Calmly re-train.  If a dog that has lived in the household for several months suddenly becomes “un-housetrained,” take it to the vet to make sure there are no health issues.  If there aren’t any, environmental or routine changes can cause dogs to revert. Don’t scold since the dog is usually already stressed.  Re-train as a reminder.

With housetraining, it’s the handlers’ ability to meet the dog’s needs at the beginning that helps to form the dog’s habit.  While it is initially a time consuming endeavor, in my personal experience, dogs can be housetrained in roughly two weeks, with almost full reliability in a month.  It’s a small percentage of time investment considering a dog’s longevity.  Accidents can still happen due to health or timing issues.  Keep in mind that in this case, dogs learn much faster than us humans.  We take anywhere from eighteen months to three years to learn to use the toilet.

The Guilt of Good-bye

It's never easy saying, "Good-bye."

The price of sharing one’s life with dogs is knowing that their time with us is short.  Although dogs can live to 15 to 20 years, many dogs don’t make it to that point for a variety of reasons, some beyond our control.  When our dogs die, most of us expect to feel the grief of loss.  But some of us also carry an element of guilt with our grief, even if we strongly believe that we acted in our dogs’ best interest, the guilt never fades.

Early on in our lives, we learn about the responsibility that comes with bringing an animal into our home.  Whether a goldfish or a dog, we learn that our pets are completely dependent on us for food, water, shelter, and safety.  If we do not feed or give water to our animals, they die.  If we do not provide them with safety, they die.  Animals learn very quickly that it is only through us that they are able to live.   Unlike children, we never teach our animals to live independently of us.  In fact, we groom dependency.  And that is the basis of our relationship with our furry (and scaly) companions, we love them and promise to care for them, and they trust us.

With dogs, we spend the first year or so building trust with them, assuring our dogs that we will provide for them, not put them in danger, not harm them, and will assist them in times of need.  We then spend the rest of their lives together following through on that promise.  We train, play, and travel with our dogs. We become not only their source for basic life needs, but also for the finer parts of life:  fun, comfort, and companionship.  But that makes it all the more complicated when we reach The End.

When our animals die suddenly, we wonder what we could have done to prevent the untimely death.  Did we fail in our responsibility to them?  Did we exercise the right amount of caution?  Did we care for their health enough?  And then there are the times when they don’t die suddenly, when pain becomes unendurable or when happy or even comfortable moments become fewer and further in between, until they don’t come at all.  At this point, our dogs turn to us, trusting that we will help them once more.  But what if there is only one solution to ending the pain, to ending days of misery?  How do we decide if and when to bring about that end?

Our dogs do not have the luxury of choice.  They have a survival drive, something that compels them to fight for life.   We don’t know if they understand the concept of their own death.  Dogs do not have a concept of an afterlife.  They don’t know about the “Rainbow Bridge.”  Then again, when the body begins to shut down on its own and appetite declines, dogs don’t force themselves to eat. 

In a test done with laboratory rats, rats were put in pain and given the ability to self-administer morphine, which they did, but not to the point of being “stoned.”  That experiment suggests that given the choice, animals want to be pain free, something that seems fairly obvious but is also complicated when we can’t explain to them that the only relief from some pain is death.  Dogs live in the here and now, which is one of the traits that makes dogs so endearing, but makes our burden that much harder to bear.

Time spent together is always too short.

As humans, we’re sometimes forced to make a choice and a most difficult one.  Do we let our dogs, the ones who put their complete trust in us, continue to endure, knowing that at some point the end will come, perhaps over years, either quietly or with ever more intense pain, but it will come?  Or, do we provide the end to their pain and suffering as they’re asking, but in the only way possible and thereby betray their trust by killing them?  We can use the term “euthanasia,” but even with the kindest and best intentions, our hearts and conscience know that we are taking the life of someone we love, who trusted us to make things better.  There isn’t a right or wrong choice, only what our hearts and minds can bear.

I’ve had nine dogs in my life:  three were dogs with whom I grew up, six were dogs I acquired as an adult.  I’ve experienced the loss of seven of them. Not surprisingly, death does not get any easier with multiple passings.  I’ve learned to accept the hole each dog left behind in my heart.  What haunts me is the guilt.  With each dog’s passing, the questions that always lurk in my heart and conscience return: Did I make the right decision?  If I could have explained what the options were, if my dogs could understand, would they have chosen the same?  Unfortunately, I’ll never know the answers. 

However during their lifetimes, my dogs’ trust in me allowed them to forgive the times I violated their trust either by accident or necessity, the times I’ve tripped over them, yelled in a moment of frustration, or held them while the vet administered a vaccination.  So now I must place my trust in my dogs.  I must trust that if I made a decision that was wrong by them, they’d forgive me once more. It is my trust in their forgiveness that allows me to endure and to share the cycle of love and trust again.
F8U9BBV7VMUB

"Bad" Behavior: Ignore, Manage or Train

Naughty or nice?

The holiday season is here.  Guests arrive or we go out visiting.  We all want our dogs on their best behavior, but that’s not always possible.  Some of our dogs’ “bad” behaviors have always existed.  Some suddenly appear.  And some mysteriously reappear.

When analyzing a behavior, start from a dog’s perspective rather than our human interpretations.  It’s important to keep in mind that dogs don’t categorize their behavior as “good” or “bad.”  They just do what they do.  Most of what we consider “bad” behavior is survival, frustration, or boredom based.  Survival behaviors are often rooted in fear, but can also be food or “reproductive” (looking for a mate) based.   The severity and intensity of the behavior and the potential for harm to humans, other animals, property, or the dog itself should be seriously considered and help with the decision of how to proceed. 

There are three ways for humans to handle “bad” behavior.  We can ignore it, meaning we do nothing at all about it.  This usually means the unwanted behavior will continue unless the dog (or any being for that matter) loses interest in the behavior.  Managing a behavior means doing something to prevent the behavior from happening either by controlling the stimulus that creates the behavior or stopping the behavior before it starts.  Usually management requires some sort of physical intervention.  The behavior won’t appear so long as the management tool is in place; however, the behavior isn’t gone.  It will reoccur when the management tool is removed.  Finally, there is training.  Training is either teaching an appropriate behavior that is incompatible to the unwanted behavior or it is creating a different association to the stimulus of the behavior.  With training, the unwanted behavior can actually cease to exist.

We usually ignore certain behaviors because they are unseemly rather than annoying or dangerous and the behavior rarely happens.  A good example could be corpophagia (poop eating) of cat feces.  While it is disgusting, it isn’t harmful to anyone and if there isn’t a cat in the house, the frequency of the behavior doesn’t warrant the time and energy required to train a dog not to eat cat feces.  We can also “actively ignore” which is when we intentionally do not react or we leave a room when our dogs behave badly in order to gain our attention.  This is actually a form of training since it’s only done for a specific type of behavior and must be done consistently to get results.  I prefer to call it “attention withdrawal” rather than ignoring.  Ignoring means we might not like the behavior, but we don’t care if it repeats on the rare occasion. 

Crates, exercise pens, and child gates are excellent
management tools for a variety of behaviors.

Management is the most frequently used tool for “bad” behavior.  It generally renders immediate “results” because the behavior isn’t given the opportunity to manifest.  Management is putting a child lock on the cabinet door to prevent access to the garbage or putting the dog in a crate to keep it from rushing the front door when visitors arrive.  Forget to latch the child lock or put the dog in the crate, and the unwanted behavior happens. Because we don’t see the behavior, it’s easy to forget that the behavior still exists.  If the bad behavior is potentially dangerous, it’s important to go on to training.  Management should be used when the behavior is annoying, but not harmful and if the behavior happens infrequently.  It can also be put into place to prevent dogs from practicing or escalating bad behavior when they’re learning a replacement behavior.

Training is the only way to actually change an unwanted behavior.  It should be used when an unwanted behavior happens frequently, such as pulling on a leash during a walk, or when there’s a potential for danger, like running out of open doors.  Training is the most time and energy consuming method, requiring consistency and patience.  It can require varying levels of professional involvement.  But, training is worthwhile because it teaches our dogs what behavior we want and can change our dogs’ mindset.  With good training, we can expect our dogs to behave in an appropriate way in different surroundings and under a variety of conditions.  It’s long lasting, although new conditions might require a refresher on the training.  When dogs discover that doing the “right” behavior is more rewarding than doing the “bad” behavior, dogs have additional incentive to change.  They also learn what it is we want, rather than randomly choosing a new behavior.  When there is an emotional component to the bad behavior, training can also help the dog feel safe and content.

Some unwanted behaviors have physiological roots and require medical attention, especially if the “bad” behavior appears suddenly.  A visit to the vet can help eliminate any health issues that are influencing the behavior.  Vets and professional trainers can also work together when there is a mix of biological and behavioral issues, as in the case of separation anxiety or obsessive-compulsive behaviors.

Making sure our dogs’ biological and psychological needs are met can help diminish many unwanted behaviors.  Examining the behavior from the dogs’ perspective can provide insight and sometimes simple solutions.  If our dogs continue to behave in an unwanted manner, evaluating the safety and frequency of the behavior can help us create an appropriate plan of action.  By implementing the plan, we gain confidence in our dogs’ behavior and can once more enjoy their company. 

A Wolf in Dog's Clothing?

A stealthy plan for attack?

In the morning, dogs and humans tumble out of bed yawning, stretching, and shaking out, ready to start the day.  There are scritches and kisses all around and more yawning and stretching.  Sometimes, when one of the dogs does a particularly large yawn that exposes glistening white teeth, I’m reminded of the potential of my furry family members.  They gaze back at me with lazy wagging tails, open mouths that look like smiles especially with their crescent shaped eyes.  It’s amazing that we can cohabitate, confident that we’re in safe company.  But would I feel the same way if they were wolves?

It’s true.  Dogs and wolves share the same DNA.  They are so closely related that they can not only breed, but can produce fertile off-spring, unlike horses and donkeys.  And yet, it’s very obvious that dogs aren’t wolves.  There are some dogs that look like wolves, like huskies, and then there are pugs.  What distinguishes dogs from wolves are the roughly 250,000 years of human intervention.  Humans manipulated wolf genetics to create an animal that likes human company, sometimes preferring it over its own species, that turns to humans for assistance, rather than fending for itself, and that serves human needs.  A domestic dog defies everything that defines a wolf, a skittish animal that is inherently fearful of people and given the opportunity tries to stay as far away from them as possible.

There are occasions when we can see a bit of the wolf peeking through our pets, when our dogs stalk squirrels, when they howl at a fire truck siren, or when they roll in something particularly smelly.  Some breeds of dogs kept a few feral traits, although the breeds that are considered the “older” breeds might surprise people.  One of the oldest breeds is the shar-pei, a wrinkly, relatively short-nosed, short-furred dog that bears little physical resemblance to the wolf.  However, the behaviors humans wanted, territorialism, endurance, and the ability to work unsupervised were behaviors pre-existing in wolves.  Chow-chows, an even “older” breed, shared the same job.  Neither dog is known to be especially affiliative with humans and both are considered “difficult” to train, due to their disinterest in people.  However, as those breeds have become increasingly popular as pets, the need for more people friendly, less territorial versions have arisen, altering the breeds yet again.  Interestingly, huskies, despite their more wolf-like appearance, are a newer breed, selected for their ability to work with people, as well as for strength and endurance for pulling sleds.   Other dogs such as retrievers, herders, and scent hounds, were selected for their “short circuit” in a wolf’s instinct to hunt/stalk, chase, grab, kill, and devour.  Retrievers and herders miss the kill and devour portion.  Scent hounds stop at the hunt stage.  A dog’s appearance sometimes resulted from the selected behavior, but human preference also played a role.

"Yes!  It fits.  It's mine now.  ALL MINE!!"

So why do some people look to wolves to compare their dog behavior?  Even when domestic dogs become feral, as in areas that are war torn or have undergone other human upheaval, they don’t revert to wolf behaviors.  In the wild, wolves form packs based on family structures:  the parents with the pups.  They live together and hunt together and are generally intolerant of interlopers.  Wolf cubs remain with their families for a few years, then go off to form packs/families of their own.  With feral dogs, the female dog fends for herself when she has pups, the father only present for conception.  Once the pups are weaned, the mother has no connection to them and they disperse.  While dogs form packs to hunt, the members of the pack tend to be transitory, making any hierarchy or organization temporary, if it exists at all.  Dogs are opportunists, creating associations with places and creatures as best suit their immediate needs.  When conditions change, they change affiliations as well.

But opportunism works to a dog owner’s advantage and makes for stronger ties.  By treating dogs as dogs rather than wolves, we gain greater loyalty.  When we provide our dogs with a sense of safety and reliability, food, shelter, and fun, they have little reason to leave or change alliances, especially when spayed or neutered.  If home and handler are “the best game in town,” dogs are motivated to remain in that situation.  They’re even willing to make concessions to maintain or improve their condition.  As Dorothy and Toto can attest, “There’s no place like home.”

Learning to Settle

Some dogs need help relaxing

With the cooler weather fast approaching, the thought of relaxing in front of the fireplace with a hot drink and our dog at our side sounds ideal.  However, whether due to breed, age, emotional state, or situation, some dogs have great difficulty calming down, especially once they’ve been revved up.  But it is possible to teach a dog to relax or “settle” and actually enjoy down time.  Like any other behavior, it’s a matter of practice and positive experience.

There are two types of “settle.”   The first is a way of preventing a dog from getting too aroused, too “carried away” during an exciting play session, the second is to show the dog how to unwind and enjoy doing nothing in particular.  Both are variations of teaching dogs impulse control, how to maintain their cool when they’d rather be bouncing off the walls or disemboweling a pillow.  Aside from getting calmer behavior, dogs actually become calmer once they figure out how to channel their energy.

Teaching a dog how to rev down from play involves watching the dog for clues that it is getting too excited, but also providing a cue for the dog so it can learn to identify the feelings associated with what will get it a time out.  Play tug or another exciting game with the dog and keep notes of the different stages of excitement.  Usually, a widely wagging tail, bouncy movements, and perky ears are the initial signs.  As the dog gets more excited, there is usually vocalization of some sort, such as barking or play growling.  When a dog is very excited, the pupils are dilated, vocalization becomes more frequent and urgent, and the dog is less responsive/receptive to communication (commands or another dog’s body language), becoming rude and demanding by jumping, body slamming, or mouthing/biting.  Of course, every dog is unique, so it’s important to know your own dog’s behavior.

Incorporate quiet time with play time.

Starting when the dog is already calm, get the dog interested in playing, then throw the ball or play tug for a few seconds.  Before the dog gets excited, stop the game and give a cue, like “Time out!”  Call the dog to do something pleasant and calm, like getting a small snack and then sitting down for a little bit.  Repeat several times a day, then gradually build up the dog's level of excitement before calling “Time out.”  Time out can also be changing gears, such as asking the dog to do a sit or a down stay for a few seconds before returning to play (play will be the reward).  If the dog is too excited to listen, stop play immediately and walk away.   With practice, you should be able to call your dog out of any level of play, ready for the next task at hand.

Teaching a dog to enjoy “down time” is a little more complicated.  It involves setting up a calm situation and “capturing” the moment, while not riling up the dog again. There’s some debate among trainers about rewarding a relaxing “settle,” mostly because by drawing attention to the dog, the dog often becomes excited again.  Also, the settled behavior should become rewarding in itself.  However, teaching a dog what “settle” means is an exercise in self-awareness, something difficult to teach within our own species. 

Plenty of exercise helps in relaxation.

Identifying the mood for the dog can help set the baseline. When the dog is calm and relaxed, quietly mark the moment by saying something like, “Nice settle, Bella.”  Giving the dog a “settling” area, such as a dog bed or mat, is also helpful.  In single dog households, a tie down and a nice chew toy can restrict the dog’s movement, while rewarding it for being in that location.  Cue the behavior by saying, “Settle.”  Bring the chew toy with you as you put the dog in a tie down.  The dog should be with family members who are also relaxing.  Chewing is a calming behavior and as the dog gets a dreamy look on its face, praise it, “Good settle.”  In multiple dog households, it’s advisable to either put all the dogs on tie down or in a separate area to prevent barrier frustration for the dog on tie-down.

Some dogs get so revved up that they lose a sense of their personal space.  We can use massage and Tellington Touch® techniques to get our dogs “re-centered.”  Surprisingly, many dogs will realize that your touch can help calm them and will seek your assistance when they feel out of sorts.  While this isn’t teaching the dog how to settle, it’s providing a sense of calm that it might not otherwise achieve.

Teaching our dog how to become calm is a gift, not only to ourselves, but to our dogs as well. It can prevent behavior from escalating into a fight, keep our dogs focused on us, and allow everyone a moment to collect his or her thoughts.  It brings peace.  Although our moms warned us not to settle, I think she’d be o.k. in this case.