In the Mood

We all have bad days.  The trick is learning how to make good
ones.

As an AKC Canine Good Citizen evaluator, I always begin an evaluation by explaining to test takers that any test is reflective only of that moment in which the test is taken.  In education terms, it is considered a “snapshot,” a moment captured, and just like a photograph, it doesn’t show hours of practice, good days and bad, or even the whole day.  It just shows, in the case of the CGC evaluation, how well dog and trainer complete the ten items in roughly fifteen minutes, but competitions, such as agility, rally, obedience, or K-9 Nosework trials, should be considered the same way.  The failure to perform at expected levels does not necessarily mean the dog or the handler are incapable or lacking skill. Sometimes health is an issue.  Sometimes our dogs are over stressed.   Then again, sometimes one of the participants just isn’t “in the mood” for the event.   Any number of factors can be at play, and since our dogs can’t explain their reasons, it’s up to us to reflect and analyze the situation.

The first thing we all consider is, did we train enough for the occasion?  Did we give the proper cues and did the dog fully understand the cues at the given moment?  Sometimes, because we’re anxious, we muddle our cues by either broadening or making them more subtle (motion cues v. verbal cues, large motion v. small gestures, etc.).  When we alter our cues, particularly if we’re in a new location (a show ring rather than in the living room, for example), our dogs can get confused or become unsure.   Because dogs are poor at generalization, too many mitigating factors can create a different picture for them altogether, making them draw a complete blank.  That’s why it’s important to train in a variety of places and under a variety of circumstances.   Once we’re sure that our dogs know and understand the cues we’re giving, we can look at other matters.

As mentioned, new environments can be distracting.  To asses safety, dogs gather information through scent, sight, and sound, especially dogs that don’t travel much and nervous dogs.   Allowing time for exploration can help a dog become more relaxed.  If possible, take the dog to the evaluation area a few times before the event, creating calm and positive associations.  If visiting the actual place isn’t possible, then going to similar settings can help.  In cases where there will be a variety of possible settings, such as with dogs being trained for rescue work or even Nosework, taking dogs to a variety of different places on a regular basis can help them learn that new places are safe and interesting.

Not surprisingly, health can also effect evaluations.  A dog with stomach problems or even dental issues, once returned to good health, might easily pass the evaluation.  When my dog started indulging in an increasing variety of displacement behaviors (sniffing, scratching, drinking excessive water) over a month long period, I thought that I might be stressing him too much.  But he also chewed on his feet at night and scratched, common signs of allergies.  He was wheat sensitive and I had been giving him dog treats with wheat.  After I altered his diet, he started to regain his former focus and enthusiasm.   It’s important to be aware of when our dogs aren’t feeling in top form since that can have a tremendous impact on their performance.

Finally, stress can impact our dogs’ behaviors.   Many times, it’s our own stress that’s being relayed to our dogs.  The scent of adrenaline and other chemicals can alert dogs to our anxiety.  From our dogs’ perspective, stress and fear are often linked.  A “fearful” scent concerns our dogs, especially since their well-being is tied to our ability to keep them safe.  Sometimes the accumulation of multiple minor events can make our dogs stressed and unfocused as well.  We’re all entitled to a “bad day.”  Making the evaluation process fun both for us and our dogs can help everyone become more relaxed and create a better performance.

Competitions and evaluations should be fun and a source of positive feedback on our interaction with our dogs.  It’s important to remember that while our dogs like to spend time with us and enjoy mental and physical challenges, ribbons and titles hold no meaning for them.  Taking a break or adding some interest can make a sport or event fun again, and that can get everyone back in the mood.

The Waiting is the Hardest Part

A strong "wait/stay" at the door can prevent accidents.

For most dogs, there’s nothing more exciting than “out there” – the back yard, the front yard, beyond the car door.  The problem is that dogs get so excited about being “out there,” they don’t see cars coming or they’re already above threshold with excitement so the sudden delight of seeing a squirrel, cat, person, or other dog puts them at “11” – completely and totally out of control.  There are two components to teaching dogs not to rush out of an open door: teaching a strong wait/stay and desensitizing the dog enough so that it will hear the cue.

In training, “wait” and “stay” can have two different meanings.  “Stay” usually means to remain in one position until released.  “Wait” means to remain in one place, although position can change, from a stand to a sit, for example.  For most dog owners, the words are interchangeable, although if that’s to be the case, the dog should be trained with both the “wait” and “stay” command.

“Wait” or “stay” is a difficult cue for many dogs to grasp initially because it is the only cue that asks them to do nothing.  Wait/stay is the absence of movement.  When a dog is already doing nothing, and we put a label to it, we’re basically marking “negative space” – that moment between doing nothing and doing something.  Many times the dog links the concept with the current position.  So, a dog being asked to wait while in a sit position, will connect “wait/stay” with sit.  Ask for a wait while a dog is standing or lying down, and the dog won’t understand or will go to a sit position.  For the dog to fully understand “wait/stay,” it should be trained while the dog is in a variety of positions until the dog understands that the cue relates to the lack of movement rather than the position.

To teach stay, it’s easiest to start by putting the dog in a resting position, usually a down, so that it takes longer for the dog to shift positions, making it easier for the dog to be successful.  The traditional signal of a hand in front of the dog’s face produces a momentary physical barrier that will also cause a dog to pause.  Marking and rewarding for a pause even a fraction of a second long will alert the dog that it is doing something desired.  Gradually expanding time and introducing movement by the handler helps solidify the concept.   Once the dog is consistent in response when the handler is beside or in front of the dog, changes in distance and position when the cue is given can be introduced.

Keeping dogs calm when the door opens is another important component to preventing dogs from rushing out the door.  Start training with an interior door, like one in a bedroom or bathroom.  Without saying anything, touch the door knob.  If the dog reacts (perky ears, rushing towards where the door will open, barking), do not do anything, or for people compelled to give feedback, give a “no reward” marker (most people use “oops”).  Try to capture the nanosecond between no reaction and reaction with a marker (click or “yes!”) and reward.  Repeat until there is an 80% success rate, then advance to rattling the door knob and repeat until the dog shows no reaction.  The next steps would be turning the knob, then unlatching (but not opening) the door, opening the door a crack, then opening the door.  Repeat with different interior doors, advancing to the door to an enclosed area like a garage, or to the back yard.  When the “wait/stay” cue is solid, start using it when doors are already open, or going into the house, work up to doors being opened.  Don’t forget to train when going in and out of the car as well.  Randomly jumping out of car into a busy parking lot can have tragic consequences.

Because training takes time and rushing out of doors can be dangerous, consider putting management tools in place.  Put up a child gate to keep dogs out of rooms that have outdoor access.  Enter and exit through areas with a safety door, like through the door in the garage (close the garage door first before opening the door to the house) or a gated yard, making sure the gate is closed before the front door is open.  Keep the dog in a separate room when company is expected or during parties where there will be many people coming and going. 

A second barrier can foil escape plans.

Despite the best training and having management tools in place, accidents happen.  Make sure your dog is always wearing some form of identification, either with tags or micro-chipping or both since collars get lost and not all shelters carry the equipment necessary to read all microchips.  Keep an emergency stash of treats by exits as well, so rather than chasing after the dog, which can create fear or a sense of play, the dog can be lured back.  Don’t scold the dog or punish it for running away since the dog won’t equate the punishment with running away, but rather its return.  Squatting, even running away from the dog can make returning to you more attractive. 

The great outdoors holds infinite allure.  While we don’t want our dogs to be afraid of what’s “out there,” we do want them to know that the wait is worthwhile.  With time and patience, our dogs will learn that waiting isn’t so hard after all.