All You Have to Do is (Re)Call



“Could you come here for a second?”

“In a minute …”

“I need you to come now.”

“At the commercial.”

“Could you come here, please?”

“Sure, just after I finish this ….”

As humans, we learn quickly that when someone calls for us, it usually means that they want us to do something for him/her, and usually it’s something we don’t care to do.  We don’t want to come, but we might feel obliged to do so depending on the urgency of tone or who’s doing the calling.  But what if we knew that every time we were called, it was to do or receive something we enjoyed more than anything else?  Most of us came running when grandma called.

A strong recall is one of the most desired behaviors for dog owners but it’s also one of the most difficult ones to achieve reliably.  It’s not complicated to train.  Dogs react the same way we do.  A good recall of humans and dogs relies on one key principle: the one being called must want to come.

There are three rules to build a good recall.  First, only recall for something good, a treat, a walk, a game of ball, or anything else that’s enjoyable.  Second, only recall when one hundred percent sure the recall will work.  And lastly, only use the command (and it must be a command, not just a name) once. 

Rewarding a recall builds anticipation and enthusiasm.  It’s the one time when “no reward” is not an option.  Use a variety of high value rewards associated when training recall – chicken, the best game of tug ever, a car ride, the arrival of a cherished friend to build excitement about coming.  And never call for anything “bad” – a bath, trip to the vet, nail clipping, etc.  It can’t be emphasized enough that coming when called, no matter how slow, must ALWAYS be rewarded and preferably with a smile.  Many frustrated dog owners call their dog after it has run away and when the dog arrives too slowly or reluctantly (possibly due to tone), the dog is scolded or worse, which prompts progressively slower and more reluctant responses the next time it is called until it doesn’t respond at all, or even runs away in terror.  The dog associates their owner’s response with the dog’s last action.  Always welcome the prodigal dog’s return.  Which leads to Rule #2:  Only call when you’re sure the dog will come.

Practice recall in a low distraction area first

Don’t call the dog if it is distracted or hyper-focused on something more interesting than you.  The brain can only respond to one stimulus at a time. Avoid a frustrating situation and go get the dog.  It’s not that dogs can’t come under highly distracting conditions, but it must be trained.  Start by practicing recall in low distraction areas with minimal distance, only a couple of feet at first.  Gradually build distance and distraction (never both simultaneously).  Time and experience will teach the dog that coming when called pays off better than chasing after a squirrel.  In the meantime, if the suspicion is that the temptation is more valuable than you, go and get the dog or better yet, capture the dog’s attention before it becomes “locked and loaded” and reward heavily for the attention.

Finally, don’t make yourself upset by giving a recall command multiple times.  If you sincerely believe the dog was out of hearing range, then call again.  Otherwise, the word loses its value and anger builds.  Calling multiple times becomes nagging or background noise.  We all remember mom saying, “How many times have I told you …” but few of us remember exactly how many times she did tell us and at that point we don’t care.  By limiting the recall to one command, we can keep our tempers in check while we go to the dog.  When we’re close enough to regain its attention, we can still feel comfortable rewarding the dog when it does finally come.

Training a good recall is convenient and vital for safety.  While it takes time and practice, it’s well worth the investment.  When you’re out on the trail and your dog responds enthusiastically to your recall, there’s that thrill to it.  As dog owners, there’s a sense of accomplishment when our dogs have decided we’re the best thing in their world.  Even better than squirrels.

Make and Model

Jindos and other primative breeds are known for their
high prey drive and not being very affiliative.

Frequently, first time dog owners acquire their first dog based on aesthetics and media reputation.  A dog by any other name is still a dog, right?  Not exactly.  Every time a film/t.v. show about dogs is released, Beverly Hills Chihuahua, 101 Dalmatians, Fraisier, sales of the feature breed increases, and not long afterward, there’s an increase of the same breeds in many shelters. Chihuahuas bark and tend to be skittish. Dalmatians have incredible strength, protectiveness, and energy.  Jack Russell Terriers are high energy and require constant mental stimulation.  250,000 years of breeding dogs for specific behaviors and, more recently, for appearances has made an impact on the canine world.  Selective breeding is what makes retrievers retrieve, herders herd, and shepherds guard. In classic design rule, form follows function.  Streamlined bodies and long legs develop in racing dogs, stocky legs and muscular bodies protect dogs enable dogs to attack bulls and hogs, webbed feet and thick undercoats keep waterdogs warm in cold seas.  Knowing what characteristics a dog was bred for can help identify what behaviors can be expected.  Genetically selected behavior is difficult, if not impossible to over-ride.

However, over the past hundred years, there’s been a growing division in many dog breeds between conformation (how a dog looks) versus working branches of the same breed.  German Shepherd Dogs (GSD) and Labrador Retrievers are great examples of the division.  The GSDs bred for conformation tend to have extremely sloped backs and shorter muzzles in comparison to the working version (police dogs, dogs bred for sports, etc.).  The GSDs bred for work tend to have higher energy levels and tenacity than the conformation versions.  Labrador Retrievers have at least three versions: conformation, field (hunting) and working (assistance dogs).  The conformation and assistant dog versions tend to be heavier set.  Labs bred as guide dogs tend to be more calm, resilient, and smaller.  Field labs have a more pronounced slope from their chest to their belly, longer legs, and are extremely high energy with incredible endurance.  Many other breeds have similar divisions.

Health is another issue to consider when looking at breeds of dogs.  The larger dogs tend to have hip and knee issues, some more than others.  For some breeds, owners should expect hip problems, which can easily mean $6,000 in surgery when the dog is just a few years old.  Not surprisingly, dogs with long backs often have back issues and would do better to live in houses without stairs.  Brachycephalic dogs (smushed in noses like English bulldogs or pugs) tend to have serious respiratory problems and overheat easily, making hot climates potentially dangerous for them.  Some health issues are not visible, like heart or eye conditions, or even behavioral problems like “rage syndrome.” Knowing what problems can come with the dogs can help with decision making.

Mixed breed dogs carry mixed behavioral and aesthetic traits.

Mixed breed dogs are complicated.  If both parents are known and purebred, then expect a combination of behaviors.  For the “Heinz 57” dogs, don’t go by looks alone.  Watching how dogs interact with their environment and play with other dogs and humans can provide some clues.  A dog that keys into movement might have herding or sight hound genes.  A dog that seems focused and tenacious about a task could be part terrier.  The current DNA tests available can sometimes reveal the ancestral roots of our dogs, but they’re not very reliable.  I’ve known people who’ve done multiple tests with the same dog but have had vastly different results, even within the same DNA- decoding company.  Buyer beware. 

When looking for a dog, be honest about lifestyle.  Hounds, bred for their voice and use of voice, might not be the best choice for apartment living.  A field bred dog can cause chaos in a sedentary household. For those not familiar with a multitude of breeds, there are some trainers and reputable breeders who can help provide guidance.  If acquiring a purebred dog, ask the breeder about the parents.  Were the dogs bred for conformation?  Work?  Both?  What traits do the parents exhibit?  If the dog is going to be a household pet, it’s very important to ask about temperament.  Not all dogs are bred to be tolerant and affiliative with people.  Good breeders will be honest about the pros and cons of their breed and about their dogs.  They want to be sure their dogs find the homes best suited for them as well.  If they’re not willing to tell the “good” and the “bad,” find another breeder.

Most of us take the time to learn a little about vehicles before we buy one, and many people only keep their cars, vans, or SUVs for five years.  Considering a dog can live from seven to twenty years, doing at least an equal amount of research makes sense.  Knowing what “make and model” of dog best suits our needs can help match our best friends to their best homes.

It's Potty Time

Many commercial products are great
at removing odors and stains

Housetraining frequently determines whether a dog becomes a family member or a backyard dog.  Because dogs that live with their families tend to be better trained, loved, and cared for, they’re more likely to remain with the family.  So it makes sense to dedicate a few weeks’ time to housetrain for a lifetime of devotion and companionship.  Housetraining isn’t difficult, but it does require full attention and dedication on the human’s part as well as an understanding of a dog’s physical capabilities. 

The general rule is that dogs can hold their bladders one hour per month of age (ex. five months old equals five hours), up to eight hours.  Asking a dog to wait longer than eight hours to relieve itself can result not only in accidents but also in health risks, such as urinary tract infections.  And some dogs can’t last eight hours. 

Dogs usually do not relieve themselves where they sleep.  Crate training helps so long as the crate isn’t so large that the dog can have a sleeping and potty area.  However, dogs raised in puppy mills or who have been kept in kennels for extended periods of time might relieve themselves anywhere.  Dogs kept too long in their crates might also start relieving themselves in the crate out of necessity at first, then habit.

Like people, dogs relieve themselves after waking, eating, and vigorous play.  Dogs also sniff intensely right before they relieve themselves.  Quickly take the dog to the appropriate potty area when sniffing occurs.  The movement might temporarily disrupt “the plan,” but be patient.  The need is there.  Knowing where the dog is and what it’s doing at all times ensures that the dog can be taken to the proper location to relieve itself when it gives the potty cues. Prevent the dog from having unsupervised run of the house to prevent accidents from occurring.  Either keep the dog in a restricted area (crate, easily cleaned room, etc.) or tether the dog to your belt so that there’s no wandering and sudden changes of movement are felt.

Going to the bathroom outside is not a dog’s natural instinct, especially during inclement weather.  It’s important to make pottying outside comfortable and rewarding.  Dogs prefer a soft surface underfoot to potty (which is why they usually relieve themselves on carpet or rugs in the house).  A grassy area is more attractive than gravel or concrete.  Adult male dogs might prefer a vertical surface for urination. 

While training, it’s mandatory to accompany the dog outside, both to ensure the job gets done and to mark and reward the appropriate behavior as it occurs.  It helps to refuse to interact with the dog until it relieves itself, after which a “celebration” always follows involving play or treats.  If the dog enjoys being outdoors, don’t bring the dog indoors as soon as it’s done or the dog won’t relieve itself until it wants to go inside, which might not be for hours. If fun and good times follow pottying, then the dog is more likely to potty quickly to let the games begin.  Watch carefully as some dogs do “fake out squats” to get play to start.

Don’t punish the dog if it relieves itself in the house.  The dog will learn that relieving itself in your presence is bad which can lead to “secret missions.”  Punishing dogs after the fact is confusing because dogs can’t relate the action of relieving themselves to your angry presence and the urine spot or feces.  A lowered head and body is an expression of fear, not guilt.  Interrupt a dog mid- act with encouragement to go outside to finish up.  Always follow success with praise and other rewards.

The waiting is the hardest part.

Once dogs figure out the appropriate relieving area, it’s important to be aware of when the dog is at the door so it can be let outside quickly both to allow it to relieve itself and to confirm that it is behaving properly.  Dogs “ask” to be let out when their bladders are full, so don’t wait. It’s worthwhile to teach the dog to ring a “jingle bell” or other device to alert the household when it needs to go out so there isn’t any accidental neglect.  Teaching a dog to urinate and defecate on command is also helpful.

When adopting adult dogs, assume they are NOT housetrained.  Dogs apply “rules” to the environment in which they were taught.  New house, new rules.  Some dogs start out housetrained, but then have accidents a week or two after arriving, usually because they aren’t sure if the former rule applies so they want to see if it does.  Calmly re-train.  If a dog that has lived in the household for several months suddenly becomes “un-housetrained,” take it to the vet to make sure there are no health issues.  If there aren’t any, environmental or routine changes can cause dogs to revert. Don’t scold since the dog is usually already stressed.  Re-train as a reminder.

With housetraining, it’s the handlers’ ability to meet the dog’s needs at the beginning that helps to form the dog’s habit.  While it is initially a time consuming endeavor, in my personal experience, dogs can be housetrained in roughly two weeks, with almost full reliability in a month.  It’s a small percentage of time investment considering a dog’s longevity.  Accidents can still happen due to health or timing issues.  Keep in mind that in this case, dogs learn much faster than us humans.  We take anywhere from eighteen months to three years to learn to use the toilet.